Lisbon & Sintra: Tiles, Trams and Pastéis de Nata

Lisbon is all light and tiles and steep little streets that open onto viewpoints you didn't expect. This is the route I send everyone: which miradouro to catch the sunset from, where the pastéis de nata are still warm and worth the queue, the Tram 28 stretch that's actually worth riding, and a perfectly-timed day trip to Sintra that dodges the worst of the crowds. Add a sunset boat on the Tagus and a night of fado in Alfama and you've got the city at its best.